385314349 RV Toilet Water Valve Assembly | Dometic & Sealand Replacement
$30.00
385314349 RV toilet water valve assembly for Dometic, Sealand & VacuFlush toilets. Controls fresh water flow to the toilet bowl. 12V DC solenoid valve, includes mounting hardware and seals. Direct replacement, easy install. Free shipping worldwide.
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385314349 RV Toilet Water Valve Assembly – Dometic & Sealand Replacement
The toilet water valve assembly is the component that controls fresh water flow to your RV toilet bowl. When you press the foot pedal or flush button, the 12V solenoid valve opens to allow water into the bowl for rinsing. When the valve fails, you may experience no water flow, continuous water flow (wasting fresh water), or water leaks at the toilet base.
This 385314349 RV toilet water valve assembly is a direct replacement for Dometic, Sealand, and VacuFlush RV toilets. It includes the 12V solenoid valve, mounting hardware, and replacement seals for a complete repair.
Compatibility
- Dometic 300, 310, 320 series toilets
- Dometic 510+, 511H, 711-M28 toilets
- Sealand 510, 511, 711, 2010, 2011 toilets
- VacuFlush VG4, VG5, VG6 vacuum toilets
- Traveler, Master, and Elegante series toilets
- Replaces part numbers: 385314349, 385310677, 385314349-SP
- Most Dometic/Sealand gravity-flush and vacuum-flush RV toilets
Kit Contents
- Water Valve Assembly — 12V DC solenoid valve with mounting bracket
- Inlet/Outlet Seals — replacement rubber seals for water connections
- Mounting Hardware — screws and washers
- Installation Instructions — step-by-step guide
Specifications
| Parameter | Specification |
|---|---|
| Part Number | 385314349 (replaces 385310677) |
| Voltage | 12V DC |
| Valve Type | Normally closed solenoid valve |
| Water Pressure | 20-80 PSI (operating range) |
| Flow Rate | ~1.5 GPM at 40 PSI |
| Inlet Connection | 1/2″ NPT (female) |
| Outlet Connection | 3/8″ barb (for flexible tubing) |
| Coil Resistance | 10-15 ohms |
| Operating Temp | 32-140°F (0-60°C) |
| Material | Brass valve body, plastic coil housing |
| Certification | NSF/ANSI 61 (drinking water safe), CE, RoHS |
Installation Guide
- Safety first: Turn off the fresh water supply at the tank or water pump. Flush the toilet to relieve water pressure. Disconnect 12V power at the battery or toilet circuit.
- Access the valve: The water valve is typically located at the base of the toilet, behind the pedestal. You may need to remove the toilet base cover or access panel.
- Disconnect water lines: Place a towel or bucket under the valve to catch residual water. Disconnect the inlet water line (1/2″ NPT) and outlet water line (3/8″ tubing) from the old valve.
- Disconnect wiring: Unplug the 12V wire connector from the solenoid coil. Note the wire colors and connection points.
- Remove old valve: Unscrew the mounting screws holding the valve assembly to the toilet base or mounting bracket.
- Install new valve: Mount the new 385314349 valve assembly in the same position. Secure with mounting screws.
- Reconnect water lines: Connect the inlet water line with a new seal or Teflon tape. Connect the outlet tubing to the barb fitting. Ensure all connections are tight but not over-tightened.
- Reconnect wiring: Plug the 12V wire connector into the new solenoid coil. Ensure a secure connection.
- Test for leaks: Turn on the fresh water supply. Check all water connections for leaks. Tighten if necessary. Let the water run for a few minutes to flush any debris.
- Test operation: Reconnect 12V power. Press the foot pedal or flush button. Verify water flows into the bowl when flushing and stops when released. Check for proper water level in the bowl.
Common Symptoms of a Bad Water Valve
- No water flows into the bowl when flushing
- Water continuously flows into the bowl (valve stuck open — wastes fresh water)
- Water leaks at the base of the toilet or near the valve
- Weak or reduced water flow during flush
- Toilet bowl doesn’t fill to proper water level
- Clicking sound from the valve but no water flow
- Solenoid coil reads open or short on multimeter
- Water runs even when the toilet is not being flushed
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I test if my water valve is bad?
A: First, check if there’s water pressure at the valve inlet — turn on the water supply and verify water flows to the valve. If water is present, test the solenoid coil with a multimeter: disconnect the wires and measure resistance across the coil terminals. A good coil reads 10-15 ohms. An open reading (infinite ohms) means the coil is burned out. You can also test by applying 12V directly to the coil — you should hear a click and water should flow. If 12V is present during flush but no water flows, the valve is bad.
Q: Why is water continuously running into my toilet bowl?
A: Continuous water flow usually means the solenoid valve is stuck open. This can happen due to debris in the valve, a worn valve seat, or a failed solenoid. First, try turning the water supply off and on rapidly a few times — this may dislodge debris. If that doesn’t work, the valve needs replacement. Continuous water flow can quickly drain your fresh water tank and fill your black water tank, so address this promptly.
Q: Can I replace just the solenoid coil or do I need the whole assembly?
A: In most cases, the water valve is sold as a complete assembly (valve body + solenoid coil + mounting bracket). While the coil can sometimes be replaced separately, we recommend replacing the complete assembly to ensure proper sealing and reliable operation. The 385314349 assembly includes everything needed for a complete repair.
Q: Is this valve safe for drinking water?
A: Yes. This water valve assembly uses NSF/ANSI 61 certified materials that are safe for drinking water (potable water) systems. The valve body and seals are made from materials that meet strict drinking water safety standards. Always use potable-water-safe hoses and fittings when connecting to your RV fresh water system.
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Need help repairing your RV toilet? Contact our technical team with your toilet model number and symptoms. Free shipping and duties included.
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