91367 RV Water Heaters Control Circuit Board | Atwood 6-10 Gallon Replacement

91367 RV Water Heaters Control Circuit Board – Atwood 6-10 Gallon Replacement

The water heater control circuit board is the electronic ignition module for your Atwood RV water heater. It manages the 12V spark ignition, flame sensing (via thermocouple or flame rectification), gas valve operation, and safety lockout. When the control board fails, your water heater may fail to ignite, not stay lit, or enter a safety lockout state, leaving you without hot water.

This 91367 control circuit board is designed as a direct replacement for Atwood 6-10 gallon RV water heaters with electronic ignition. It features reliable spark ignition, flame sensing, gas valve control, and plug-and-play installation with no programming required.

Compatibility

• Atwood 6-gallon water heaters: GC6AA-10E, GC6AA-9E, G6A-8E, G6A-7E, G6A-6E
• Atwood 10-gallon water heaters: GE16-EXT, GE9-EXT, G16-EXT, GC10A-4E
• Atwood water heaters with 12V electronic ignition (spark ignition)
• Dometic WH-6GA, WH-9GA, WH-10GA water heaters (rebranded Atwood)
• Replaces board numbers: 91367, 93844, 93870, 91602, 92834, 93305
• Most Atwood/Dometic 6-10 gallon water heaters with 12V spark ignition

Specifications

How It Works

When you turn on the water heater (via the inside switch or thermostat), the 12V power is sent to the control board. The board initiates the ignition sequence: (1) Spark igniter activates, creating a 15kV spark at the electrode. (2) Gas valve opens, allowing propane to flow to the burner. (3) The spark ignites the gas-air mixture at the burner. (4) The flame sensor (flame rectification or thermocouple) detects the flame and signals the board to keep the gas valve open. (5) If no flame is detected within 8-10 seconds, the gas valve closes and the board retries up to 3 times. (6) After 3 failed attempts, the board enters a 30-minute safety lockout. (7) Once the water reaches the thermostat setting (typically 140°F), the thermostat opens, cutting power to the board, which closes the gas valve. When the water cools below the set point, the thermostat closes and the cycle repeats.

Installation Guide

1. Safety first: Turn off propane supply at the tank. Disconnect 12V power at the battery or water heater switch. Allow the water heater to cool completely.
2. Access the board: Remove the water heater exterior access panel. The control board is typically mounted near the burner assembly, visible through the access panel. It may be behind a small plastic cover.
3. Document connections: Take photos of all wiring connections before disconnecting. Note the position of each wire: 12V power (positive/negative), thermostat, gas valve, spark igniter, flame sensor/thermocouple.
4. Disconnect wires: Remove all wire connectors from the old board terminals. Note the position of each wire.
5. Remove old board: Unscrew the mounting screws (2 or 4 screws) holding the board to the water heater housing or mounting bracket.
6. Install new board: Mount the new 91367 board in the same position. Secure with the mounting screws.
7. Reconnect wires: Connect all wires to the corresponding terminals on the new board (refer to your photos). Ensure all connections are secure. Double-check the 12V power connections — incorrect wiring can damage the new board.
8. Test operation: Reconnect 12V power. Turn on propane. Turn on the water heater switch inside the RV. Verify the ignition sequence: spark ignites → gas valve opens → burner lights → flame is sensed → continues heating. Check for proper flame (blue with yellow tips). Let the unit run until it reaches temperature and cycles off. If the unit locks out, check all wiring connections and the gas supply.

Common Symptoms of a Bad Control Board

• Water heater won’t ignite — no spark or gas
• Spark occurs but gas valve doesn’t open (no flame)
• Flame ignites but won’t stay lit (flame sensing failure)
• Water heater locks out after one ignition attempt (should retry 3 times)
• No spark at the electrode (spark output failure)
• Intermittent operation — works sometimes, not others
• Clicking sound from the board but no ignition
• Burning smell or visible burn marks on the board
• 12V fuse for the water heater blows repeatedly
• Water heater runs continuously without cycling (thermostat issue, not board — check thermostat first)
• No hot water — burner never ignites

Troubleshooting Tips

• Check 12V power first: Use a multimeter to verify 12V DC at the board’s power terminals when the water heater switch is on. Below 10.5V, the board may not function properly. Check the battery, fuse, and wiring.
• Check the thermostat: The board only receives power when the thermostat is closed (calling for heat). If the water is already hot, the thermostat will be open and the board won’t activate. Test by running hot water until the tank cools, then check if the board activates.
• Check the gas supply: Ensure the propane tank is open and has fuel. Check the regulator and gas lines for leaks or restrictions. A weak gas supply can prevent ignition.
• Check the electrode: The spark electrode gap should be 1/8″ (3mm). A dirty or misaligned electrode can prevent ignition. Clean the electrode tip with fine sandpaper and adjust the gap.
• Check the flame sensor: If the burner ignites but won’t stay lit, the flame sensor may be dirty or misaligned. Clean the sensor tip and ensure it’s in the flame.
• Listen for the gas valve: When the board calls for heat, you should hear a faint click from the gas valve solenoid. If no click, check the gas valve wiring and coil resistance (should read 10-30 ohms).

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I test if my control board is bad?

A: To test the control board: (1) Verify 12V DC power at the board’s input terminals when the water heater switch is on and the thermostat is closed. If no power, the issue is with the switch, thermostat, fuse, or wiring — not the board. (2) If power is present, check for spark at the electrode when the board activates. If no spark, check the spark wire and electrode. If they’re good, the board’s spark output is bad. (3) Check for 12V output at the gas valve terminals when the board is in the ignition phase. If no voltage at the gas valve but spark is present, the board’s gas valve relay is bad. (4) If the burner ignites but won’t stay lit, check the flame sensor. If the sensor is good, the board’s flame sensing circuit may be bad. (5) If the board doesn’t retry after a failed ignition (locks out after one attempt), the board’s timing circuit is bad. If any of these tests fail and the external components (wiring, electrode, gas valve, flame sensor) are good, the control board needs replacement.

Q: What’s the difference between 91367 and 93844/93870?

A: 91367, 93844, and 93870 are all control boards for Atwood water heaters, but they may differ in connector type, mounting, or specific features depending on the water heater model. The 91367 is a common replacement board that works with most Atwood 6-10 gallon water heaters with electronic ignition. The 93844 and 93870 are specific to certain model years or configurations. This 91367 replacement is designed to be compatible with all three part numbers. Always verify the connector type and wiring configuration before installing. If your original board has a different connector layout, you may need to adapt the wiring or use a different replacement board. When in doubt, contact our technical team with your water heater model number.

Q: Can I install this board myself?

A: Yes. Water heater control board replacement is one of the easier RV repairs and can be done by most RV owners with basic DIY skills. The board is plug-and-play — no programming or wiring modifications required. The key steps are: (1) Turn off gas and 12V power, (2) Document all wiring connections (take photos!), (3) Remove the old board, (4) Install the new board, (5) Reconnect all wires, (6) Test the ignition sequence. The entire process typically takes 15-30 minutes. The most common mistake is misconnecting the wires — always refer to your photos and the water heater wiring diagram. If you’re uncomfortable working with 12V electrical or LP gas, we recommend professional installation.

Q: Why does my water heater work on electric but not gas?

A: If your water heater has both electric and gas modes (like the Atwood GC6AA-10E), and electric works but gas doesn’t, the issue is specific to the gas ignition system. Common causes: (1) Bad control board: The gas ignition board may have failed while the electric heating element still works. (2) Gas supply issue: The propane tank may be off, empty, or the regulator may be faulty. Check the gas supply to other appliances (furnace, stove) to verify. (3) Bad gas valve: The gas valve solenoid may be stuck or burned out. Test the coil resistance (should be 10-30 ohms). (4) Bad electrode or spark wire: The spark electrode may be dirty, misaligned, or the wire may be damaged. (5) Bad thermostat: The gas thermostat may be faulty (separate from the electric thermostat on some models). (6) Wiring issue: A loose or corroded connection in the gas ignition circuit. To diagnose, check for 12V power at the gas control board when the gas mode is selected. If power is present but no ignition, the board, gas valve, or electrode is likely bad.

Related Products

• RV Gas Water Heater Solenoid Valve — 12V gas control valve for water heaters
• 92089 Water Heater Valve Kit — Water inlet/outlet valves with TPR and drain
• 12L Propane RV Water Heater — Complete LPG water heater for RVs

Need help repairing your Atwood water heater? Contact our technical team with your water heater model number and symptoms. Free shipping and duties included on all orders.